Gold chain buyer's guide: styles, carats & Hatton Garden pricing

A gold chain should outlast you. Get the style, carat and weight right and it does. Get them wrong and you'll be back inside a year. This is the guide we wish every client read before they walked in — chain styles, what 9k vs 18k actually means for your wallet, and why buying in Hatton Garden still beats the high street in 2026.

Cuban link

The defining men's chain of the last decade. Tight, interlocking oval links lying flat against the skin. Heavy, masculine, and the most-requested style in our Hatton Garden showroom — bar none.

• Best for: statement pieces, pendants, everyday wear if solid.
• Typical widths: 4mm (subtle) up to 15mm+ (full statement).
• Watch out for: hollow Cubans. They look the part but crush under any real wear. Always solid.

Curb

The classic flat-link chain — what most people picture when they hear "gold chain". Lighter than Cuban, more refined, and the go-to for women's chains and dressier men's pieces.

• Best for: pendants, layering, everyday wear.
• Typical widths: 1.5mm–8mm.
• Why it's loved: sits beautifully flat, catches light at every angle.

Belcher

Round, open links — light, airy and very British. A staple of London jewellers for over a century and still our most-requested ladies' chain. T-bar Belchers are everywhere on Hatton Garden right now.

• Best for: women's everyday chains, T-bar styling, lockets.
• Typical widths: 1.5mm–5mm.

Figaro

A pattern chain — three short links followed by one long link, repeating. Italian origin, popular for men's chains in the 14–22 inch range. Sits between Cuban (heavy) and Curb (flat) in feel.

• Best for: men's chains worn solo (no pendant).
• Typical widths: 3mm–10mm.

Rope

Twisted, braided links that catch light from every direction. The most "sparkly" of the solid chain styles — and one of the strongest pound-for-pound.

• Best for: pendants (especially crosses), men who want shine without flatness.
• Typical widths: 2mm–8mm.

Franco, Box & Snake

The cleaner, more modern silhouettes. Franco is a tight V-shaped link, box is square-section, snake is fully smooth. All look incredible in 18k and pair well with modern pendants.

9k vs 18k — which carat should you actually buy?

This is the question every client asks. Honest answer:

9k gold

• 37.5% pure gold, 62.5% alloy.
• Harder — scratches less, dents less.
• Roughly half the price of 18k for the same weight.
• Paler yellow colour.
• Best for: everyday chains, kids, anyone hard on jewellery.

18k gold

• 75% pure gold, 25% alloy.
• Rich, deep yellow colour — what most people picture when they think "real gold".
• Softer — scratches and dents more easily.
• Holds resale value far better.
• Best for: statement chains, investment pieces, anything you'll pass down.

Hatton Garden split is roughly 70/30 in favour of 9k for everyday chains and 70/30 in favour of 18k for heavier statement pieces. There's no wrong answer — there's the right one for your budget and wear pattern.

Solid vs hollow — the only rule that matters

If a chain price looks too good for its size, it's hollow. Hollow gold chains weigh a fraction of solid, look identical out of the box, and crush, dent or snap within months of real wear. We don't sell hollow chains. If you're shopping elsewhere, ask the question outright and weigh the chain before you pay.

Why buy a gold chain in Hatton Garden?

• You pay for gold, not retail markup. Hatton Garden prices are weight-based plus a fair making charge — typically 30–50% less than the high street for the same piece.
• You see the chain weighed in front of you. Every reputable Hatton Garden jeweller weighs the chain on calibrated scales before you pay. No guessing.
• Bespoke is normal here. Want a 7mm Cuban at 22 inches in 18k rose gold? We commission it from our own workshop. Standard.
• Repairs stay local. A snapped clasp or stretched link is a 10-minute fix on Hatton Garden, not a six-week postal repair.

Bespoke chains — what's actually possible

Most clients don't realise how much is customisable. From our Hatton Garden workshop we commission:

• Any link style — Cuban, Figaro, Rope, Franco, fancy patterned links.
• Any width — from 1.5mm fine chains up to 20mm+ statement Cubans.
• Any length — standard 18/20/22/24 inch, or sized to the exact millimetre.
• Any carat — 9k, 14k, 18k, 22k. Yellow, white, rose, or two-tone.
• Diamond-set links, iced-out finishes, custom clasps with engraving.

Lead time is typically lead times shared on enquiry. We quote in writing before any work starts and you see the chain weighed before you pay.

What to ask before you buy any gold chain

• Is it solid or hollow?
• What's the exact weight in grams?
• What carat — 9k, 14k, 18k?
• Is it hallmarked? (Anything over 1g sold in the UK must be.)
• What's the price per gram including making?

Send us a picture of any chain you're considering and we'll tell you honestly what it's worth — and what the same money buys bespoke from Hatton Garden.